Promoting Good Health

Feeding

One of the most common questions that we are asked is, “What should I feed my dog?” There are so many choices – dry vs. canned, raw vs. home-cooked vs. commercial. And the number of pet food companies is positively baffling. The best advice we can give about feeding your Golden is to feed them the highest quality food you can afford.

The tooth structure and intestinal tract of dogs have become adapted to an omnivorous diet. This means that, under normal circumstances, dogs can meet their nutritional needs by eating a combination of plant and animal foods. The ideal food for the average dog would be fresh whole prey, eaten raw, and supplemented with whatever fresh grasses, fruits, and berries are in season. However, this would be socially unacceptable and impractical.

The source of the proteins and fats in a dog’s diet is less important than the quality and digestibility of these essential components. Dogs can do well on a properly balanced vegetarian diet; however, an all-meat diet would be unbalanced and not provide the proper nutrients. A well-balanced diet must include an appropriate amount of minerals, vitamins, certain essential amino acids (from proteins), and specific essential fatty acids (from fats). To meet their energy needs, dogs have evolved to use proteins and fats as their primary energy sources but they can also use carbohydrates for energy; however, complex carbohydrates such as grains are more digestible when they are cooked.

It is generally best to select a low-calorie diet. Most adult, indoor, spayed or neutered dogs have low energy requirements. Your Golden’s diet should contain a relatively small number of calories per cup ~ ideally less than 350 calories. Feeding a high-calorie diet means that you must often feed a small amount, which can be very unsatisfying.

Feeding a commercial diet is certainly most convenient and most likely to prevent nutritional deficiencies. In terms of nutrition and digestibility, there are no differences between dry and canned dog food. For dogs who need to consume more water or have certain special dietary needs, canned foods may be a better choice. Otherwise, most dogs will do fine on dry kibble. Some dry kibble has been specially formulated as dental diets and can mechanically help remove plaque.

Dogs have varying nutritional needs during different stages of their lives and feeding a diet that is formulated for all life stages is not necessarily appropriate. An ‘all-purpose’ dog food may not provide enough nutrients to meet the needs of a growing puppy or a pregnant or nursing mother. The same all-purpose diet may provide excessive nutrients to a senior or inactive dog. If you have a large or giant-breed puppy that is at risk for hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia or other growth abnormalities, you should feed a puppy food specially formulated for large-breed puppies. These diets are formulated to contain the optimal ratio of proteins and calcium to moderate rapid bone growth that can lead to joint disorders. Older dogs will benefit from diets lower in calories, higher in protein, lower in sodium, and with fewer carbohydrates.

Many owners are concerned about the use of preservatives in commercial dog foods. Preservatives are not necessarily bad and are important to prevent food from spoiling. Owners also tend to mention their concern regarding the use of meat by-products in commercial pet foods; however, it is important to realize that by regulatory definition, meat by-products are not hooves and hair but organ meats, which are perfectly nutritious and eaten by many humans.

Many owners feel that their pet will benefit from a home-cooked diet. It is important to remember that feeding a home-cooked diet does not mean just sharing from your plate. If you want to feed a home-cooked diet, it is important to follow diet recipes that have been formulated by animal nutritionists or have been shown to meet basic nutritional requirements.

The benefits of homemade diets include confidence in the freshness and wholesomeness of the ingredients and the potential inclusion of non-essential or synergistic components in the diet. The risk of homemade diets is that your Golden could end up not just undernourished but actually malnourished. This risk can be minimized by using recipes that have been analyzed for nutritional adequacy and by adhering strictly to the recipes when preparing the food.

Problems may occur if diets are either under- or over-supplemented with certain vitamins and minerals.

Some people are proponents of feeding grain-free (carbohydrate-free) diets, raw meat diets or bone, and raw food diets. Some animals do very well on these diets and others do poorly. Raw food diets are available commercially or can be prepared at home. If feeding a raw diet, it is very important to make sure that it is nutritionally balanced.

Raw meat and poultry are commonly contaminated with bacteria, some of which may be harmful. Cooking will kill bacteria, although it may not necessarily destroy toxins that were produced by the bacteria. Freezing does not kill bacteria and improper food storage allows them to multiply. Advocates of raw meat diets maintain that healthy animals are resistant to the bacterial pathogens found on commercially available raw meat sources. Critics of raw meat diets maintain that bacterial pathogens could represent a health risk to animals or their owners. To minimize these risks, it is necessary to ensure that the ingredients are stored properly, good food preparation practices are followed, and strict attention is paid to hygiene including hand washing after food preparation, sanitation of food bowls and feeding areas, and immediate cleanup of feces.

Raw bones are not without some risk. They may cause fecal impaction or bowel perforation. Raw bones may also cause dental problems such as fractured teeth. Cooked bones must NEVER be fed since they are brittle and prone to splintering and can cause both obstructions and perforations of the intestinal tract.

It is important to remember that dogs may be allergic to any component of their diet. In dogs, it is usually the skin that suffers if there is a food allergy. Food allergies are one of the itchiest conditions that dogs may develop. It may take months to years for a food allergy to develop, so a dog may become allergic to a diet that they have been on for a long time. The most common food allergies in dogs are beef, dairy, and wheat. Unfortunately for food allergic pets, most pet foods contain some mixture of beef, dairy, wheat, lamb, fish, and chicken. This means that simply changing foods is bound to lead to exposure to the same allergens. There are two ways to address food allergy ~ feeding a diet based on a truly novel protein source (this usually means an exotic diet like venison, duck, kangaroo, rabbit or even alligator) or feeding a diet where the protein has been pre-digested into units too small to interest the immune system.

The main point to remember about choosing a dog food is to make sure to consult your veterinarian or animal nutritionist to make sure that you are feeding a nutritionally balanced diet. Proper diet is an important element in providing our beloved family members with the long, healthy life they deserve.

A ‘Weighty’ Issue

We humans aren’t the only ones battling weight issues ~ so are our pets. Just like us, weight issues can be genetic, due to an underlying endocrine condition like hypothyroidism or Cushing’s disease, and can also be related to medications your pet may be taking, like steroids to help with allergies or seizure medications like phenobarbital. However, weight gain most likely tends to be related to how we feed our pets.

Count calories ~ the feeding guides on pet food bags are formulated for adult, intact dogs (not spayed or neutered). Based on this, you could be feeding 20-30% too much, especially if you have an older pet. Ask your veterinarian how many calories your pet should be taking in each day to maintain a healthy weight. A guide is to take your pet’s weight and divide it by 2.2, multiply this by 30 and add 70.

Measure meals! Use a proper measuring cup to properly measure out the amount to feed your pet. Studies show that giving as few as 10 extra kibbles a day can add up to a pound of weight gain per year for small dogs. Once you calculate how much to feed your pet, divide this amount into two to three meals per day. This will help stimulate their metabolism to burn off the calories.

If you want to feed treats, make sure they are good treats. Many treats are full of sugar and fats. Try and find treats that are low calorie and sugar free. Make sure you consider the calories of the treats when calculating out how many calories your pet should be eating per day. As few as 30 extra calories per day can mean an extra three or more pounds in a year. Your pet won’t know the difference between getting the whole treat or just part of a treat. So, break up the treat into pieces and consider only giving half.

Sliced apples, bananas, carrots, green beans, broccoli, and celery can be fed as treats, provided that your pet does not have any allergies to these foods. Stay away from onion and garlic ~ they are toxic.

Omega 3 fatty acids, found in fish oils, have been proven to help prevent numerous diseases because of their anti-oxidant effect. They also have anti-inflammatory properties. Almost every pet and people can benefit from taking these. L-carnitine has been shown to help with weight loss and promote lean muscle mass. Again, always consult with your veterinarian before starting supplements.

Strive for health with 20 – 30 minutes of brisk walking. This boosts the immune function in dogs. It also improves cardiovascular health and may reduce some behavioural problems.

Watch those carbs. A high protein, low carbohydrate diet helps prevent obesity and since obesity can predispose dogs to diabetes mellitus, we are also lessening the chance of diabetes. Look for a low or no-grain option with a protein source as the first ingredient.

Read the food labels. Is the diet complete and balanced? Is it life stage appropriate? When purchasing a dog food, you should be looking for the AAFCO seal of approval (Association of American Feed Control Officials). AAFCO sets standards for feeding control protocols, establishes minimum and maximums for key nutrients, and sets the nutrient guidelines for life stages. Be careful when feeding a food ‘For All Life Stages’ ~ this is basically puppy food. What may be appropriate for your puppy is not appropriate for the adult or senior pet.

Allergies & Nutrition

There are three main types of allergies in dogs ~ atopy (inhalant allergies), flea allergies, and food allergies, typically characterized by chronic ear infections, itchy and stained paws, hot spots, red staining on the face or belly, an itchy body, and gastric upset. In dogs, just like in humans, the incidence of allergies is increasing. Dogs are allergic to many of the same environmental allergens as humans.

Common allergens are pollens, dander, grasses, trees, and fabrics. In food allergies, the allergen is usually a major protein or carbohydrate ingredient such as beef, chicken, pork, corn, wheat or soy. However, any food, preservative or dye can be an allergen. Some dogs have many allergies. It is not particularly unusual for a dog with a food or inhalant allergy to also be allergic to flea bites, especially considering that flea bite allergy is extremely common among pets. Flea bite allergy is caused by the flea’s saliva, so it only takes a few bites to cause the problem.

First and foremost, it’s important that your vet confirms that your dog’s chronic issues do stem from allergies, and not another, potentially more threatening health issue. When everything else is ruled out, managing allergies can be challenging, but not impossible.

FLEAS
Dogs that have flea allergies will bite at the base of their tail and scratch frequently. Many dogs have a characteristic thinning of the hair above the base of the tail. Fleas or flea dirt can be found on the dog the majority of the time; however, it can occasionally be difficult to find fleas as only a few fleas are needed to cause a problem in an allergic dog.

ATOPY
Atopy usually starts out as a seasonal itchiness. After several years, the itchy period extends until, in many cases, the dog is itchy almost all year round. Atopy tends to begin between the ages of one and three. Itchiness due to atopy responds rapidly to steroids. Atopy is associated with skin irritation around the eyes, mouth, ears, armpits, abdomen, legs, and anus.

Atopy is often diagnosed based on history and symptoms. In dogs that do not respond to symptomatic treatment, further testing is often needed. This may be in the form of biopsies or allergy testing. Testing is best done during the pet’s non-itchy season. The test involves injections of small amounts of allergen extracts into the skin. Reactions noted are compared to reactions produced by two controls ~ pure histamine (very inflammatory) and pure saline (very non-inflammatory). Prior to testing, many medications commonly used to treat atopy must be withheld. Allergic skin testing is generally performed only by veterinary dermatologists. As an alternative to skin testing, several blood tests have been developed to check for the presence of allergy-type antibodies in the blood.

These tests can be submitted by any veterinarian and drugs generally do not need to be withheld prior to testing. Skin testing is ideal, but blood tests may be considered for animals suspected of having inhalant allergies that simply cannot go without medication, who have negative skin testing or for whom skin testing is unavailable for other reasons.

There is no cure for allergies and it is usually a life-long problem. The goal is to control and manage allergies and improve the quality of life for dog and owner. Prednisone and other related steroids tend to be useful as the first line of defense against itchy skin. Dogs are started on a higher dose, which is tapered to every other day. An atopic dog will respond within a few days. Problems occur when the dog’s need for itch control demands excessive use of prednisone or there are an excessive number of undesirable side effects. Common side effects include excess thirst, excess appetite, urinary incontinence, lethargy, and panting.

Antihistamines are less harmful and have fewer side effects than prednisone; however, only 10-20% of dogs will respond to any given antihistamine. Often several different antihistamines must be tried to determine which is most effective. Diphenhydramine (Benadryl), clemastine, hydroxyzine, and chlorpheniramine are four of the most commonly tried. Even if there is not adequate response to an antihistamine alone, combining the antihistamine with a steroid will generally lower the required dose of the steroid. Fatty acid supplementation alone is helpful in 10-25% of itchy dogs and will often boost the effectiveness of antihistamines.

Atopica (cyclosporine) is an immune system modulating drug originally developed for use in organ transplant patients but also useful in other immune-mediated diseases. Since allergies are an immune-mediated condition, cyclosporine has been found to be an alternative to steroids. Atopica tends to be quite effective with minimal side effects; however, it can be quite expensive.

Topical sprays and shampoos are helpful in some dogs but rarely adequate on their own. When bathing, it is important to remember that cool water is considered much more soothing than warm water. It is also important to remember that ten minutes of skin contact is the minimum requirement for any medicated shampoo to allow for the therapeutic benefit to be realized.

Allergy injections (hypo sensitization) may be considered in pets just like in people; however, hypo sensitization should not be expected to end all scratching. Allergy shots require approximately 6 to 12 months to begin working ~ 25% of atopic dogs will not respond, 25% of dogs will require prednisone at least some of the time, and you will need to give the injections.

Severe itching has a major impact on a dog’s quality of life. It is important not to develop the mindset that steroids should be avoided at all cost. This is not fair to the itching pet. Steroids are valuable tools in the treatment of itchy pets. The goal is not to avoid steroid use but to avoid long-term dependence on steroids if possible. However, there are a few dogs that will still require long-term steroid use in order to achieve any reasonable comfort. These dogs need to be monitored with checkups, routine blood work, and other testing as needed.

Food Allergies

Food allergy is one of the itchiest conditions known to dogs. Many people assume itching due to food allergy requires a recent diet change of some sort. In fact, the opposite is true. Food allergy requires time to develop, so most animals have been eating the same diet for years before problems develop. The following clues point us toward a diagnosis of food allergy ~ itchiness is not and has never been a seasonal problem. There has been partial response to steroids at best and there is a combination of facial itching, foot or limb chewing, belly itching, and recurrent ear infections. Some dogs will also have itching and irritation around the anus.

Addressing a food allergy is best done through an elimination diet. Until recently, allergy testing was unreliable and costly, often resulting in frustration for the owner when results were inconclusive. Allergy testing can be ordered online; however, the cost can be prohibitive. An elimination diet is more economical as the only associated costs are the foods you choose to use, and for many, it is still the only real way to know what your dog can tolerate. We begin this process by simplifying the diet as much as possible, usually with only one protein and one carb, and then build the diet from there (for kibble feeders, the best kibble for this is the series of Limited Ingredient diets from Natural Balance, or for commercial raw feeders, a new veterinary line of whole food, lightly processed food called Rayne is also available). The most common mistake we make in elimination diets is time. An allergy can stay in the body for up to 12 weeks and when we’re making changes after just a couple of days or weeks, we may not be seeing the true results of the food test. For example, if your dog is allergic to chicken and you switch to a salmon-based diet, you’ll need to stay on the salmon diet (unless of course the condition worsens) for 12 weeks before you’ll know if your dog is reacting to something in the new diet. Once you’ve passed the 12 week point and your dog is showing improvements, begin adding one new ingredient (even if in the form of a topper or a treat) every two weeks, provided there are no additional allergic reactions. Remember though, if you add a food that causes a reaction, you’ll be back into that 12-week cycle. Be sure that everyone who has access to your dog understands his strict diet limitations as one little tidbit fed from a friend can result in 12 weeks of waiting! Also, be cautious of treats (staying within your approved ingredient list) and access to other dogs’ food in multi-dog households.

WARNING: Diets that include duck, venison, and other proteins commonly used in hypoallergenic diets are now readily available. Before feeding these foods, remember that these ingredients will not be useable for diet trials in pets that have eaten them as their normal diet. That may complicate the diagnosis of food allergy in the future.

Most dogs will react to a food that they’ve had in abundance throughout their life and, for many, that begins with grains and chicken. A good starting point for those new to elimination diets is to cut out grain (not just gluten-free) and chicken first, and see how your dog improves.

If you believe your dog has both environmental and food allergies, keep in mind that an elimination diet can be very challenging to conduct when your dog may also be reacting to pollens. For those of us with dogs who have both types, elimination diets are really only reliable when done during the colder months. For many, medications like Benadryl or steroids seem to be the only option to stave off symptoms of outdoor allergies, and sometimes, they are necessary. If despite all your efforts, your dog’s allergy symptoms are causing secondary health issues like chronic loose stool, gastric upset, chewing of their paws or skin to the point of bleeding or even aural hematomas from chronic ear infections, you may need to medicate your dog. Risk of skin infections, pain from self-harm, and even repeated surgery to deal with hematomas are all detrimental to your dog’s health; therefore, often a compromise must be made to weigh the damage from medications versus the damage from these health issues. In regard to natural alternatives, Milk Thistle is a wonderful supplement to protect the liver as is Turmeric, which can also help to balance the immune system. Fish oil acts to not only promote a healthy coat, but also contains anti-inflammatory properties to help manage allergy response. Probiotics are probably the most important addition to a dog’s diet when dealing with the yeast that develops in an allergy dog and it should be provided in the form of either powder or tablet (yogurt just doesn’t have enough probiotic in it to provide the relief you’re looking for without feeding so much dairy it upsets your dog’s stomach). Probiotics should always have a wide range of bacteria strains, beyond just acidophilus, and well-known brands like Omega Alpha or Kazooticals will provide just what your dog needs. Raw, local honey is also a gentle way to desensitize your dog to pollens, and if used long-term, can have considerable effects. It should always be raw so that the pollens haven’t been destroyed via pasteurization and should always be local so that your dog is slowly exposed to the pollens from the area where you live. Lastly, topical treatments like Apple Cider Vinegar (always organic, with ‘mother’, never apply to broken skin as it can burn), Colloidal Silver (don’t give internally to a dog on probiotics, as it can counter-act the probiotic), Coconut Oil and Oil of Oregano are all great products for destroying yeast build up, conditioning the skin, and relieving itch.

TIPS FOR SUCCESS

Because allergies are the result of the immune system’s over reaction, limiting your dog’s exposure to toxins is a great way of preventing or reducing allergies. If the immune system is always being challenged by toxins, it never has a chance to ‘relax’ and function normally. Consider eliminating scent diffusers and plug-ins in your home, avoid fabric sprays that your dog will walk/lie on and then consume through licking themselves, and switch to natural cleaning products.
The AVMA (American Veterinary Medical Association) has recently changed its vaccination protocols for core vaccines to once every three years. Do some research on the science available about vaccines and speak to your vet (and perhaps get a second opinion from a holistic vet) about minimal vaccine protocols. The science available to us about canine immunology and vaccinations is far different from that which is available about humans and children, and well worth the investigation on your part.
Choose high quality supplements. Many ‘for dogs’ supplements are waste product from human production and aren’t required to meet the same standards. Quality companies do exist, like Omega Alpha, Ascenta, Mercola, and Purica, but in many instances, a human product can be used.
Keep a journal of what your dog eats, what changes you make, the season, and how your dog is seeming to feel. Working with allergies is a long-term commitment and we can easily forget what works and what doesn’t. Tracking your progress (or lack thereof) can make life much easier and avoid duplication of trial and error.

Integrated Health Care

The technological advances in veterinary medicine have brought continuous new drugs, diagnostic, and surgical procedures that have resulted in a significant increase in the average lifespan of our pets. With the rising popularity of natural medicine, many practitioners and owners have also embraced approaches such as Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM).

TCM has been practiced in humans for over 5,000 years and for 3,000 years in animals. It includes acupuncture, herbal medicine, and food therapy. The goal of treatment is to restore balance and remove energy blocks. This aids in pain relief and the regulation of gastrointestinal motility and has anti-inflammatory effects and promotes immune-regulation and microcirculation. These strengthen the body and help it heal.

The needles used in acupuncture are very small and most animals become very relaxed during the treatment. Unfortunately, not all animals will tolerate acupuncture needles. In these animals, a Chinese herbal formulation can be used in lieu of acupuncture to give similar physiological effects. Chinese herbal medications can be used in combination with many western treatments or as an alternative to drugs with undesired side effects. Many foods have similar yet less intense medicinal actions as herbs. By adding or eliminating certain foods from your pet’s diet, long-term health benefits can be achieved.

There are many conditions that respond well to TCM. It is beneficial in chronic illness, especially when the pet is not responding well to conventional western therapies. It has also proven effective for urinary incontinence, arthritis, disc disease, seizures, IBD (irritable bowel disease), cardiac disease, skin problems, renal failure, liver disease, chronic cough…to name a few. Animal chiropractic alone or in conjunction with acupuncture can be very effective for animals with pain or mobility problems. Home treatment can be particularly good for those animals with mobility issues and the familiar environment can be more relaxing.

TCM and chiropractic are medical modalities that can be used as the sole method of treatment; however, some choose to integrate them with western veterinary medicine and other natural remedies. Every animal is unique and requires an individual assessment to determine the best combination of therapies.

Every Dog Has a Bucket

By Lynda Kitson, Owner, Who’s Walking Who Dog Training Centres

And we have one too! No, it’s not a bucket full of toys. It’s a STRESS bucket. Now you may think, why on earth would my dog be stressed? They have a nice comfy place to sleep, two square meals a day, not to mention cookies, treats, yummy things to eat, toys, and walks.

Well, it might surprise you to learn what things can, in fact, stress them out.

Let’s talk about the bucket first. The bucket may be very large or it may be very small and it has nothing to do with the size of your dog. Every bucket has a hole in the bottom of it. This is where stress empties out. Once again, the hole may be very large or it may be very small and it has no relation to the size of the bucket. A very large dog might have a very small bucket with either a very small hole or a large hole. A very small dog could have a very large bucket which has a large or small hole. The size of the bucket depends on how much your dog can handle ~ in other words, how much stress are they able to cope with. The size of the hole depends on how quickly they can decompress. If they are able to bring their arousal level down quickly, then they probably have a large hole in the bottom of their bucket. On the other hand, if they remain on high alert or their arousal level quickly increases, they most likely have a small hole in the bottom of their bucket.

Let me explain what I mean by arousal level in our dogs. Arousal refers to when a dog is scared, excited or frustrated. Anything that causes your dog to become scared, excited or frustrated can pay into the bucket. Also, every negative and positive experience can pay into the bucket. Unfortunately, when the bucket is full, anything else that pays into the bucket causes it to overflow, which results in reactivity. Another thing that pays into the bucket is if your dog has health issues. Things like pain, itchiness or stomach issues contribute to filling the bucket. Think about when you’re not feeling well. My husband knows to stay away from me when I’m not feeling well because I get really grumpy as I don’t have time to be sick. How about when you have an upset stomach or suffer from allergies. What’s your mood like then? It’s no different for your dog. When your dog is over aroused or stressed, it may manifest as lunging, barking, biting, mouthing, destruction, pacing, whining, nagging, humping, zoomies, not listening, and more.

Now it may surprise you what types of things can pay into the bucket. Spending time outside in your back yard could pay into your dog’s bucket if they’re the type vigilant about checking for stuff happening. Deliveries or people knocking at your door or ringing the doorbell can pay into the bucket. For some dogs, people or other dogs passing by the front window can add to the bucket. Predictable cues pay into the bucket. This might be something as simple as picking up your dog’s leash. Do they get really excited about that? If they do, it adds to the bucket. Maybe it’s taking out their food bowl, picking up your house keys or putting on your jacket. Perhaps they don’t get excited about those but instead look a little sad because you’re leaving them. Going on walks can pay into the bucket, especially if you go on the same route every day. Why, you might ask? Because there are lots of predictors when they go on the same route approximately the same time everyday. This could be people they meet, dogs they see or squirrels out searching for food. A change in routine can also add to the bucket. We used to say “Get your dog on a routine”. We don’t tell students that anymore because we’ve learned over the years that having your dog on a routine is, in fact, not good for them. This is because when the routine changes, it often stresses them out. Think about when things change for you or don’t go as planned. Do you get frustrated, upset, stressed? For some dogs, going to the veterinarian or groomer can stress them out. We don’t have that problem with our own Goldens. They love going to both places; however, remember I said that both positive and negative experiences pay into the bucket? Because our dogs love going there so much, it raises their arousal level and quickly fills their bucket. I’ll touch on two more but there are in fact many more. If you have a noisy or busy home, that can also pay into the bucket. For instance, if you have young children, they can often be noisy and busy running around. If you have teenagers who play loud music or video games, that can also pay into the bucket. The last one I’ll touch on is if you have a multi-dog household ~ one dog might set the other one off adding to that dog’s bucket. What sometimes happens in our house is, Star will bark at something outside, which sets off Tula who then chimes in with even more barking.

The unfortunate part about all this is once your dog’s bucket overflows, it can take up to 72 hours for it to empty.

So, how can we help them empty the bucket and keep it from overflowing? One of the things we can do is help our dog learn to be calmer. This then lowers their stress or arousal level. Unfortunately, dogs don’t know how to calm themselves.

One of the first things to realize is that adult dogs need a minimum of 15 hours of sleep a day. If they get 8 hours at night, they still need another 7 hours during the day. It doesn’t need to be all at once. It can be broken up but rest is essential. Think about a child who doesn’t get their required naps. What happens to them? They become wild animals ~ no disrespect intended. I raised 3 children and have 5 grandchildren. This might mean your dog rests in a crate, their bed or someplace where they won’t be disturbed. If you have young children, they need to understand that they must not bother the dog when they’re sleeping. Another thing is to provide your dog with puzzle feeders. These are toys where they have to figure out how to get the food. This is very calming and tiring for dogs. Snuffle mats and Licky Pads are also good for this. Just be sure to supervise them to make sure they don’t decide to eat the mat or pad in the hopes of finding more food. A frozen Kong filled with their food or something they enjoy or long-lasting chews are also good options. Again, be sure to supervise chews and make sure they don’t try to swallow it whole as they get near the end.

Calmness is KING. A calm dog is less stressed, can think and respond, and is better behaved.

Leptospirosis in Dogs

Dr. Scott Bainbridge, Dundas West Animal Hospital

Leptospirosis is a bacterial infection that affects the liver and kidney of dogs. The bacteria thrives in stagnant water and outbreaks often happen in the fall after prolonged periods of rain.

Leptospirosis is carried in the urine of wildlife, mainly rodents, skunks, and raccoons. Dogs become infected when ingesting or swimming in contaminated standing water. It was once thought that ‘Lepto’ was only a rural disease but as urban sprawl encroaches on wildlife, this is no longer just a ‘country’ disease. At my clinic in downtown Toronto, we diagnose at least two to three cases of this potential deadly disease each year. Lepto is considered a zoonotic disease as people can become infected through their pets.

Dogs infected with leptospirosis can present with an array of clinical signs. Some may appear clinically normal whereas others may be weak, stiff, in appetent, and/or in some cases jaundiced.

As a result of the variable clinical signs, diagnosis can be difficult; however, routine blood work may show an elevation of renal and/or liver values. DNA-PCR testing is used to confirm suspected cases.

Lepto is treatable with antibiotics if caught early enough in the course of the disease; however, prevention is the key. Most veterinarians offer a yearly four-way Lepto vaccine for their patients. Personally, I recommend this vaccine to all our at-risk canine patients on a yearly basis but not all veterinarians agree with this vaccine protocol. If you feel your pet could be at risk of becoming infected, discuss the Lepto vaccine with your veterinarian at your next appointment.

The Calming Touch

By Peter Brown, Owner & Professional Dog Trainer, Alpha Paws

All dogs have places on their bodies that, when touched, can provoke an instant reaction. There are subtle spots that you should touch your dog that feel very good to them and are highly effective at soothing rather than revving them up. It’s important to try and avoid the more aggressive type of tug of war interaction because it can quickly cause play biting, jumping, and other rude behaviour.

How you approach your dog is important. It’s best to project a calm and relaxed demeanor so that your dog sees you as non-threatening and will feel safe with you in your home. This is particularly important with rescue dogs as they are often coming from an unsafe or insecure environment. One of the first things that they need to learn when they join your family is that you are a positive influence in their lives and someone that they can trust. They need to know they can relax with you and let their guard down.

With any new dog, it is important to start bonding with them right away and using the calming touch will teach the dog that your love is unconditional ~ that it means something and has value. If your dog does not accept your love, then you have no currency, nothing to reward them with at the end of a job well done. This is a crucial part of establishing that loving bond between you and your new furry friend. And if you are going to be training your dog, you have to give them just as much love and praise to keep that scale balanced. So, if you touch your dog properly in the right place and at the right time, then you will make sure that your dog is firmly bonded to you, happily accepts your love, and is eager to follow your instruction. And unlike food and treat rewards, you will never be out somewhere and run out of your bag of love!

Now, let’s take a look at the simple steps involved in implementing the calming touch with your dog:

1. Start by facing your dog and get down on their level, keeping your body low. This can be done in a number of ways including crouching, sitting on the floor or on the edge of the couch so that you are face-to-face with your dog and at their level. Avoid too much direct eye contact as many dogs find that intimidating.
2. Reach your arms out and calmly call your dog to you. As you extend your arms, keep your hands open, flat, palms out, and lower than the dog’s head. Avoid approaching from above as they can view this as a threat and may be reluctant to approach you for a sniff.
3. Once your dog reaches you, have them sit in front of you. Don’t forget to tell them what a good dog they are!
4. Slowly start rubbing your dog along the sides of their face lightly with slow, gentle strokes. Always rub up from underneath on the side of the face and neck stroking softly against their jaw line and down along both sides of the cheeks.
5. Stroke the spot running from the corner of the eyes down to the ears and anywhere in that area. This is the nurturing spot that the mother dog would lick to clean their pup’s eyes and ears. Your dog will be in heaven and will love it! You can also pull gently forward on or behind their ears and in the hair around the neck, which are other good spots that many dogs find irresistible. Again, go slow and steady in a gentle rhythmic motion.
6. The calming touch can also be administered along the dog’s mane. Gently follow their mane down toward their back with both hands rubbing gently on each side of their neck running from the top of the head, down the middle and stopping high along their back.
7. The shoulder blades and the chest areas are other great spots that when calmly stroked or rubbed will turn your dog into putty in your hands. From there, move all the way down both sides of the spine using your thumbs to gently massage and you will have your dog melting in your arms. There is also a little spot on either side of the top of the tail near the dog’s bum that many dogs love to have rubbed.
8. When lightly stroking your dog along the side of their face, neck, and body, I highly recommend using an open palm or the flat back of your hand and avoid scrunching up your fingers in their coat. That scrunching motion can sometimes feel like a bite and may cause them to react by play biting in return.

Keep in mind that all dogs are different and some methods will work better than others so we must always watch the dog’s reaction to our touch and adjust accordingly. This is why it’s great to have a lot of options to select from when petting your dog. And one thing that all dogs do have in common is that the more time you spend loving and attending to them using a calm, relaxed approach, the stronger the bond will be between you.

Tick Alert: Golden Owners Beware

By Nomi Berger, Best Selling Author

With the arrival of warm weather comes the arrival of an annoying and possibly fatal pest ~ the tick.

What was once considered a nuisance found only in the wooded countryside has been persistently and increasingly invading cities both large and small. Now ticks can be as close as your neighbourhood park or your neighbour’s backyard.

What, precisely, is a tick? A tick is a fairly common, external parasite that embeds itself in the skin of both animals and humans. Once it lands, it inserts its mouthparts into the skin and feeds on the blood. And that single tick has the potential to pass on multiple diseases.

Four species of ticks reside in Canada: Brown Dog Tick, Western Black Legged Tick, American Dog Tick, and Lone Star Tick. The most common tick in southern Ontario is the American Dog Tick which is considered to be a danger to dogs wherever woodlands exist. While all ticks are capable of carrying various diseases, it’s the Western Black Legged Tick that’s responsible for the transmission of Lyme disease which both animals and humans can contract.

Areas in Ontario known to have ticks carrying Lyme disease now include Long Point Provincial Park on the northwest shore of Lake Erie, Turkey Point Provincial Park on the northwest shore of Lake Erie, Rondeau Provincial Park on the north shore of Lake Erie, Point Pelee National Park on the north shore of Lake Erie, Pinery Provincial Park on the southeast shore of Lake Huron, Rouge Valley/Rouge Park on the east side of the GTA, Prince Edward Point National Wildlife Area on the northeast shore of Lake Ontario, and Wainfleet Bog Conservation Area on the Niagara Peninsula. Lyme-infected ticks are becoming more common in the Rainy River area of northwestern Ontario.

Prevention and early detection are the best ways of protecting your Golden against Lyme disease. The intent is to stop it before any symptoms appear. Should the disease progress, symptoms can include stiff, painful, and swollen joints and a limp that comes and goes, often appearing to switch sides. Some Goldens may have an arched back and a stiff walk. More serious, however, are fever, difficulty breathing, and kidney failure, while heart and neurological problems are rarer.

To help protect your Golden, there are countless preventatives available on the market that stop ticks BEFORE they bite, killing, not only all of the major tick species, but acting as a flea treatment as well. Always consult your vet first; however, before purchasing any of these products or starting any form of medical treatment on your own.

When bitten, the skin of some pets may become red and irritated around the site, while others may not even notice the parasite attached to them. It’s imperative that you inspect your pet thoroughly when returning from areas known for ticks.

Should you find a tick, it must be removed very carefully to ensure that the mouthparts are fully removed. If left behind, they can abscess and cause an infection. Kill the tick by placing it in a zip-lock bag and pouring rubbing alcohol over it. For the uncertain owner, special tick removal devices are available, while the squeamish can have their vet remove the tick instead.

Some experts now advise that when your Golden is tested annually for heartworm disease, the same test should include screening for Lyme disease, ehrlichiosis, and anaplasmosis (both bacterial infections). A positive test result enables you to start treating your pet early ~ before the onset of any symptoms.

Never was the expression “an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure” truer than in the case of tick prevention.

Nomi Berger is the bestselling author of seven novels, one work of non-fiction, two volumes of poetry, and hundreds of articles. She lives in Toronto with her adopted Maltese, Mini, and has been volunteering to write for animal rescue groups in Canada and the U.S. since 2013.